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Weft-Knitted Fabrics
Published in Tom Cassidy, Parikshit Goswami, Textile and Clothing Design Technology, 2017
Fully fashioned shaped knitwear has got the following important characteristics: Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.It is very distinctive and easily identifiable by the fashioning marks, which normally run parallel to the garment seams.The garment panels are assembled using cup seaming and linking in which usually the garment sides, sleeves, and underarms are cup seamed and the shoulders and collars are linked.The difference between linking and seaming is that with linking a stitch per stitch joint results, whereas cup seaming stitches the edges of the fabrics together.Fully fashioned knitwear includes sweaters, cardigans, ladies suits, jackets, coats, tights, stockings, lingerie, and so on.
The Manufacturing Industry
Published in Roger Timings, Basic Manufacturing, 2006
Knitwear is largely manufactured in Scotland and in the East Midlands. Hand-made knitwear is largely made in the Scottish islands as a ‘cottage industry’. Mass produced knitwear is made in and around the cities of Leicester and Nottingham. Unlike woven cloths, the yarn in knitwear is made directly into the finished garment ready for wear. There is no cutting out and no waste. Knitting machines are frequently computer-controlled nowadays and the patterns are also designed on computers and downloaded directly on to the knitting machines. This allows the process to respond quickly to changes in customers’ requirements. Typical products are underwear, socks, stockings, tights, gloves, jumpers, pullovers and cardigans. Hats, gloves and fur goods (natural and imitation) are also made in the UK, but in relatively small quantities by specialist firms.
Advanced textiles: Sharing disciplines, project fields, and practices
Published in Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho, Textiles, Identity and Innovation: In Touch, 2020
M. Carlomagno, R.A. Sanches, R. Veneziano
According to Sanches (2011), knitting is the mechanical transformation process of yarn into knitted fabrics. Weft knitting is the result of the manufacturing process of the textile, which consists of passing a loop of thread through a knitted bushing, giving flexibility and elasticity to the knitted textile. The fabrics and garments produced by knitwear are comfortable, breathable, absorbent and require lower maintenance costs than other textiles. Therefore, the production of weft knitted fabrics can be made in a traditional package or in seamless knitted fabrics.
Challenges and design opportunities in prototyping seamless knitted apparel: a case study
Published in International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2021
Adriana Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda A. Sanders
Traditional knitwear design relies on tailoring blocks cut from knitted fabrics (known as cut-and- sew construction), or shaped knitted flat panels (known as fully fashioning construction), that are assembled to make the final garment (Taylor & Townsend, 2014). This approach perpetuates the design practices of knitwear as design of garments with stretch fabrics, rather than 3D apparel product design, with varying complexities depending on the knitting technology used (McCann et al., 2016). ‘The general view is that knitwear is a component of fashion design as opposed to a separate discipline’ (Evans-Miellis, 2012, p. 62). However, the adoption of seamless knitting technology, that allows engineered shaping of the fabric, created garment construction and silhouette opportunities that are not fully explored (Moore & Smith, 2020; Radvan, 2013). Designers are challenged to engage not only with the 3D aspect of the design, but are also excluded from one of the most important stages of the design process of seamless knitted apparel: the computer programming of the garment (Sayer et al., 2015).