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Knitting and other forms of yarn manipulation
Published in Michael Hann, Textile Design, 2020
Knitting is a means of constructing cloth through interlocking loops of yarn formed by means of needles. Vertical columns of loops are known as wales and horizontal rows of loops are known as courses. Compared to their woven equivalents, knitted cloths are regarded as elastic, porous, light‑weight, wrinkle resistant and comfortable to wear. Two knitted-cloth types, weft knitted and warp knitted, rely on the use of different machines. An outline of techniques and products was given in this chapter. Attention was turned also to identifying and mentioning briefly other fabrication techniques, including netting, macramé, lace making, sprang, braiding and crochet. An outline was given also of the embellishment technique known as embroidery. There are various further cloth embellishment or construction techniques not mentioned here; foremost among these are probably quilting, patchwork and appliqué. Should the reader wish to explore these subject areas, it is worth referring to the two publications by Walker (1981 and 1983).
Knitting and Recent Developments
Published in Asis Patnaik, Sweta Patnaik, Fibres to Smart Textiles, 2019
Bibhu Prasad Dash, Rajesh Mishra, Veerakumar Arumugam
Knitting is a process of manufacturing of fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarns. The word knitting has been derived from the Saxon word ‘Cnyttan’, which has its origin from Sanskrit word ‘Nahyati’. Knitting has been associated with human civilization even before 256 AD. Three small pieces of wool-knitted fabric found in Syria by archaeologists have established this fact (Ajgaonkar 1998). In the known history, the credit for developing the knitting machine goes to Reverend William Lee of Calverton near Nottinghamshire, England during 1600 AD. (Liu and Hu 2010, 2011, 2015).
Smart textiles in the performing arts
Published in Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho, Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future, 2018
Aline Martinez, Michaela Honauer, Hauke Sandhaus, Eva Hornecker
Knitting is the method of creating a fabric from multiple loops of yarn. Knitted fabric can be stretched, allowing the production of tight, but flexible, textiles. This freedom of movement is important for realizing a dance costume (Bicât 2012). Because of this ability to stretch, initially designers of circus costumes, and later of dance costumes, explored knitted textiles (vam.ac.uk/content/articles/d/dance-costume-design). Handcrafted knitted sensors integrating conductive yarn are being developed by the maker and DIY community, often from a combination of different materials. Some projects constitute interactive installations (Persson 2013) or discuss benefits of interactive knitted applications (Bredies & Gowrishankar 2014). Afroditi Psarra’s Soft Articulations costume measures a dancer’s motions, generating sound output (afroditipsarra.com/index.php?/on-going/softarticulations). It integrates handmade bend sensors crafted from resistive fabric and velostat.
Additive manufacturing of weft knitted and braided fabric structures with fused deposition modeling
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2023
Sabit Adanur, Ajay Jayswal, Katherine O. Griffin, Julia L. Hancock
Knitting involves the inter-looping of one yarn system into continuously connecting vertical columns (wales) and horizontal rows (courses) of loops to form a knitted fabric structure (Adanur, 1995; Kurbak & Ekmen, 2008). There are two types of knit structures: weft knit, and warp knit. Weft knit fabrics are formed by a yarn which forms into loops successively at each needle during the same knitting cycle (Ramakrishna, 1997). Weft knitting action occurs in the course direction, as indicated by a solid dark line in Figure 1a. Several types of knitting stitches are used in weft knit fabrics including plain, tuck, purl (reverse), and float (miss) (Choi & Ashdown, 2000). The plain stitch fabric has all of its loops drawn through the same side of the fabric. The plain fabric has a smooth face and a rough back. These fabrics have good stretchability especially in the course direction (Adanur, 1995). Warp knit fabrics are produced by using a warp beam containing several hundred or thousand ends. Each end passes through its own needle and is formed into loops which intersect with adjacent loops (Renkens & Kyosev, 2011). Thus, a flat looped fabric is knitted using only warp yarns without the necessity of weft yarns being interwoven. Warp knitting takes place in the wale direction of the fabric, as indicated by a solid dark line in Figure 1b.
Investigation on material variants and fabrication methods for microstrip textile antennas: A review based on conventional and novel concepts of weaving, knitting and embroidery
Published in Cogent Engineering, 2022
Rameesh Lakshan Bulathsinghala
Knit fabrics are composed of interloping loops of yarns. The two major types of knits are weft knits and warp knits (Figure 3ai). In weft knits, as illustrated in Figure 3ai, each course yarn lies at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced (wale direction) and the interloping course yarn traverses the fabric widthwise direction. Three fundamental stitches in weft knitting are plain-knit, purl, and rib. Weft knitting machines can produce both flat (Figure 3biv) and circular fabrics (Figure 3bi,bii). As illustrated in Figure 3aii (left), the individual yarn is fed one or more needles at a time, however, multiple yarns can also be fed. On the other hand, in warp knits, the interloping course yarn traverses the fabric in a lengthwise direction. The needles produce parallel rows of loops that are simultaneously interlocked in a zigzag pattern (Figure 3aii (right)). One or more set of warp yarns are fed through swinging yarn guides to a row of needles extending across the width of the machine (,biFigure 3aiii). Two common types of warp knitting machines are the Tricot and Raschel machines. Figure 3biii represents a schematic of knitting mechanism of a tricot knitting machine. Unlike typical knit structures, however, a separate conductive yarn (metal coated textile yarn) is interloped with the knit structure while producing antenna conductive components, as illustrated in Figure 3c, to create a set of intermeshing conductive loops.
Cut resistant property of weft knitting structure: a review
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2018
Lijuan Wang, Kejing Yu, Diantang Zhang, Kun Qian
Knitted structures are developed by knitting, a process of forming fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarns (Padaki & Alagirusamy, 2006). The repeating unit of the knitted fabric is called the loop, depending on the direction in which the loops are formed, knitting can be broadly categorized into two types – weft knitting and warp knitting. Weft knitting, the most common type of knitting in the apparel industry, forms loops when yarns are moving in the weft direction or perpendicular to the direction of fabric formation (Pastore, 2000; Pamuk, & Çeken, 2008). Figure 4 shows basic structure of the weft knitting (i.e. plain knit) .They can be created either on the flat bed machine or on the circular machine (see Figure 5).