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Textile and Other Odours: A Focus on Third-hand Smoke and Laundry Odour
Published in G. Thilagavathi, R. Rathinamoorthy, Odour in Textiles, 2022
R. Rathinamoorthy, G. Thilagavathi
Organic substances with different natures, such as very volatile (VVOCs), semi-volatile (SVOCs), and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), are the major components of ETS (Daisey 1999). Further, it also contains particulate matter (PM) and associated organics, as well as gas-phase inorganic chemicals. The intensity of these chemical compounds as a THS depends mainly on the sorption and emission characteristics of the indoor or clothing material. Out of different materials, household fabrics and clothing materials play a vital role in the re-emission of major ETS components, such as nicotine, naphthalene, 3-ethenylpyridine (3-EP), and phenol (Elkilani et al. 2003). A study analysed the ETS uptake by clothing material using a simple method by exposing the textiles to cigarette smoke in a closed container. Fabrics such as wool, linen, cotton, silk, rayon, acetate, and polyester were used in this study, and the weight addition immediately before and after ETS exposure was analysed. The results reported the smoke sorption in terms of weight addition; a higher mass change was noted in natural fibers like linen and wool, followed by cotton and silk. Out of all the natural fibers, silk was found to have lesser weight gain. In the case of man-made textiles, rayon and acetate fibers absorbed more ETS, with a higher weight gain, whereas polyester was noted as the least absorbing material. In this study, there was a different amount of weight gain noted with the wool fiber itself due to its structural difference. Higher sorption of ETS was noted with wool gabardine structure, followed by suiting material and crepe. Similarly, the researcher noted a difference between the wool gabardine and polyester gabardine structures. Hence, he reported that the chemical and physical structures of fabric are the main reason for the different sorption abilities of the fabric. Furthermore, he compared the moisture regain of the fibers and related it with ETS sorption. Fibers with higher moisture regain percentage (13.6–16%, wool) gained more weight than cotton (8.5%). Similarly, in man-made fiber also, rayon with 11.6–16% moisture regain absorbed more ETS than the polyester (0.4%) (Noble 2000).
The evolution of journalists´ style in the cinema in Spain: From the Historias de la radio to Spotlight
Published in Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 2023
Among the accessories from the 50s, it is necessary to point out the importance of the hat. At the timing (30:52–32:16), the main actor appears wearing the Fedora hat, named like that because it was related to a theatrical play in which a woman only wore a single hat, but seemed like she had hundreds of them. In fact, this hat has been worn in the cinema for: Al Capone, Humphrey Bogart and even Indiana Jones. Another common item of clothing from journalists in the cinema and the main actor of this film is the raincoat. The antecedent of the raincoat appeared in 1823 when Charles Macintosh patented the waterproof fabric. In 1879, Thomas Burberry would waterproof the cotton strands and wool fibres individually instead of the finished fabrics, creating the gabardine fabric, being the most breathable fabric to date.