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Cationic Surfactants and Quaternary Derivatives for Hair and Skin Care
Published in Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski, Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, 2020
Matthew F. Jurczyk, David T. Floyd, Burghard H. Grüning
Cationic emulsifiers do play an important role and can offer specialized benefits for cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulators. For instance, Papadakis describes the preparation of systems based on quaternized phosphate esters, such as linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. These formulas display exceptional stability at acidic pH conditions and may be used in the preparation of cosmetics containing alpha-hydroxy acids (101). Zeigler notes that it is possible to prepare exceptionally mild, freeze-thaw-stable systems using combinations of quaternary ammonium functionalized phosphate esters together with cationic polysaccharides (102).
Nanotechnology and Anti-Ageing Skin Care
Published in Dilip Ghosh, Pulok K. Mukherjee, Natural Medicines, 2019
B. Fibrich, I.A. Lambrechts, N. Lall
Organic ingredients that are often incorporated into moisturisers include hydroxy and hyaluronic acids. Hydroxy acids, also commonly referred to as fruit acids, are carboxylic acids by nature that occur in an alpha or beta conformation according to molecular structure. Examples include tartaric, lactic, citric, glycolic, salicylic, malic and lactobionic acids. They achieve restored hydration by promoting desquamation of the stratum corneum. Salicylic acid has also been incorporated into a range of anti-ageing formulations.
Superficial Peeling
Published in Antonella Tosti, Maria Pia De Padova, Gabriella Fabbrocini, Kenneth R. Beer, Acne Scars, 2018
Jessica Cervantes, Maria Pia De Padova, Antonella Tosti
α-hydroxy acids (AHAs) is a family of carboxylic acids consisting of glycolic, lactic, malic, oxalic, tartaric, and citric acid. Glycolic acid is the most popular AHA that is used as a peeling agent [8]. Superficial glycolic acid peels provide an overall improvement in the appearance of the skin with minimal post-peel recovery. The chemical effect of topical AHAs is to diminish corneocyte cohesion above the granular layer and diminish the quantity of desmosomes and tonofilament aggregates. This results in detachment of the stratum corneum with subsequent desquamation within 24 hours post-treatment [3]. In summary, AHAs such as glycolic acid result in thinning of the stratum corneum, promotion of epidermolysis, and dispersion of basal layer melanin [8]. Furthermore, increased secretion of interleukin-6 causes increases in dermal hyaluronic acid and collagen gene expression [1].
Portulaca oleracea extract relieves skin barrier damage induced by increased photosensitivity after GA peeling
Published in Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology, 2022
Jing Wei, Qianghua Quan, Peiyu Wang, Yiming Wang, Tong Huo, Quan An
There are different kinds of acids used in chemical peeling, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the most common. AHAs are natural substances extracted from various fruits, cane, yogurt, etc. In 1974, Scott and Yu1 reported that some AHAs have antikeratinogenic properties in patients with several types of ichthyosis. AHAs accelerate the shedding of stratum corneum cells by reducing adhesion and activating steroid sulfatase and serine proteases to degrade desmosomes, thereby speeding up the skin's metabolism2. In addition, their moisturizing and antioxidant properties have been described3. Besides epidermal effects, AHAs evoke dermal changes. Kim et al.4 performed in vitro studies using cultured human skin fibroblasts and showed a dose-dependent increase in cell proliferation and collagen production. The effect on fibroblast proliferation is also documented in other literature5,6. Owing to these characteristics, AHAs can be used for the treatment of ichthyosis, keratosis, scars, rosacea, chloasma, and other pigmentation diseases7. AHAs have been used as therapeutic agents for nearly half a century and are still commonly used8,9. Glycolic acid (GA), an AHA that is mainly extracted from sugarcane, has the smallest molecular weight among AHAs and is the most commonly used chemical peeling agent because of its permeability10,11.
Actinic keratosis and imiquimod: a review of novel carriers and patents
Published in Expert Opinion on Drug Delivery, 2019
Mandeep Sharma, Gajanand Sharma, Bhupinder Singh, O.P. Katare
Winkle and Osborne had filled a patent application for imiquimod formulations. The patent disclosed the method of enhancing the solubility of the drug by employing hydrogen bond forming compounds in 1:4 to 4:1 ratio and enhancing the stability with the help of polar organic solvents and polymers. The hydrogen compounds are selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, alkyl-sarcosinates, anionic pegylated dimethicone derivatives, anionic oleyl ether surfactants, anionic laureth ether surfactants, cyclic acids, and cyclic acidic sugars. The organic solvent is selected from aprotic solvents, cyclic alcohols, short chain liquid alcohols, diols, triols, esters, ethers, pharmaceutical oils, and silicones, whereas polymer is chosen from cellulose derivatives, methacrylic acid copolymers, carbomers, pyrrolidone-containing polymers, polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene block copolymers and polyvinyl alcohols. However, due to the failure of the applicant to file the request for examination, the application was deemed to be withdrawn [78].
Clinical evidence for washing and cleansers in acne vulgaris: a systematic review*
Published in Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2018
Thomas Stringer, Arielle Nagler, Seth J. Orlow, Vikash S. Oza
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolate and lactate have been used for decades in the treatment of cutaneous disorders. Their mechanism of action involves desquamation through decreasing basal corneocyte cohesion and limiting follicular occlusion (25,26). Our review identified one prospective study meeting inclusion criteria. In 2014, Abels et al. conducted a 6-week open-label, unrandomized clinical trial of a 1% glycolic acid cleanser in 60 AV patients and reported a significant decrease in mean Leeds score, a severity grade of the face, back, and chest, at the study endpoint (p < .001) (27). Alpha-hydroxy acid-containing formulations may be considered in the treatment of acne vulgaris, particularly in light of mechanistic similarities between these AHAs and better validated anti-keratinization agents such as retinoids.