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Fabric creation
Published in Claudia E. Henninger, Kirsi Niinimäki, Marta Blazquez, Celina Jones, Sustainable Fashion Management, 2023
Claudia E. Henninger, Kirsi Niinimäki, Marta Blazquez, Celina Jones
Denim, for example, is a woven fabric used in the production of jeans. When denim jeans were first introduced, they were predominantly marketed as workwear for males (Levi Strauss, 2019). One of the key characteristics of denim fabric is that it not only has a particular method of construction, which produces a fabric with a hardwearing properties and appearance; but also has a particular method of colouration to achieve the “indigo” blue mentioned in the next section of this chapter. This particular method of dyeing enables a distressed look to be achieved in denim fabric.
Mao berry as a green reducing agent in natural indigo dyeing on cotton fabrics
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2022
Laksanawadee Saikhao, Jantip Setthayanond, Thitinun Karpkird, Potjanart Suwanruji
Natural indigo is the oldest vat blue dye that is mainly applied on cellulosic fibres, especially for denim dyeing. One of the indigo plants is Indigofera tinctoria usually cultivated in tropical countries such as India, China and Thailand (Duangbubpa & Pratumnet, 2015; Vuorema, 2008). Leaves and twigs of Indigofera tinctoria contain indican which can be hydrolysed by enzymes into glucose and indoxyl. By aeration, indoxyl is oxidized to blue indigo pigment (Chakraborty & Chavan, 2004). The insoluble blue indigo extracted from the plants needs to be reduced in an alkaline solution into its water soluble leuco form before use in dyeing. The leuco indigo dyes have substantivity towards cellulosic fibres and can exist in different ionic forms in the dyebath depending on pH. Leuco indigo in the mono-ionic form is predominant at pH 11.5, whereas the di-anion form is the main at a higher pH. The former one exhibits much higher substantivity for cellulose than the latter one, resulting in higher colour yield (Etters, 1989). On exposure to air, the leuco indigo impregnated in the fibre is oxidized to the original water insoluble form (Figure 1).
Predicting quality parameters of denim fabrics using developed ANN based Artificial Bee Colony algorithm
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2023
Gözde Katırcıoğlu, Emel Kızılkaya Aydoğan, Yılmaz Delice, Esra Akgül
Denim, known as a special fabric, is generally defined as fabrics made of 100% cotton fibers in a twill weave, with colored warp and white weft yarns. The fabrics produced are used in various denim garments such as uniforms, jeans, etc. Therefore, manufacturers need to meet customer demands by diversifying denim fabrics in order to overcome the changing fashion perception and the competition it brings. The different parameters such as weft and warp yarn numbers, fiber type, weaving type, density that make up the fabric will cause changes in both the appearance and performance of the fabric. The effects of these changes on the performance properties of denim fabrics must be taken into consideration for the final product.
Small/Medium scale textile processing industries: case study, sustainable interventions and remediation
Published in Indian Chemical Engineer, 2022
Avanthi Althuri, Onkar Nath Tiwari, Vanitha T. K. Gowda, Miyon Moyong, S. Venkata Mohan
The prospering denim colouring business mainly includes dyeing, washing and softening processes [28]. Typically, for every colouring cycle, 200 g of dye and mild acids are used besides, chemicals like sodium hydrosulphite/sodium dithionite [25]. Mostly, the dyes used in these small scale commercial units are aniline derived dyes (synthetic dyes). Aniline (C6H5NH2), is an organic compound with a phenyl group linked to an amine group and belongs to the class of aromatic amines. The rationale for using aniline dyes is that these synthetic moieties are precursors to indigo colour which is the most commercially preferred shade for denims. Organically, indigo is a rare blue coloured pigment that is extracted from the leaves of certain plant species belonging to the genus Indigofera, and so historically, it has gained commercial significance and liking from the denim buyers. However, to cater to this upsurge in indigo demand that usually ranges in the tune of several thousand tons per annum, aniline based synthetic route was globally adopted. This chemical conversion method was developed in the late 1800s, where indoxyl is produced from the fusion of sodium phenylglycinate in a mixture of sodium hydroxide and sodamide. The use of aniline dyes in Shiv Vihar is high due to its extremely cheap market price that easily fits their budget. The most preferred aniline derived colour ‘Jamuni’ is generally used by the locals for denim dyeing [25]. The low investment and possibly attractive income from denim dyeing business has turned to be a threat to the residents of Shiv Vihar. Recently, the chemical routes and processes engaged in indigo dye synthesis are being scrutinised by the concerned authorities considering the negative impact of the harsh chemicals on human and animal health. Besides, global manufacturers are seeking for more eco-friendly and sustainable methods for indigo dye production.