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Natural Products and Stem Cells and Their Commercial Aspects in Cosmetics
Published in Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters, Cosmetic Formulation, 2019
Sonia Trehan, Rose Soskind, Jemima Moraes, Vinam Puri, Bozena Michniak-Kohn
Waxes are esters comprised of long-chain fatty acids that have been reacted with higher alcohols. Wax esters have two fatty groups: one in the alcohol portion and one in the acid portion (O’Lenick et al., 2008). Carnauba wax is a high melting point wax derived from the leaves of carnauba palm trees (Copernicia cerifera). Although the tree grows throughout the world, only the variety found in northeastern Brazil produces the wax used in the cosmetic industry. Carnauba wax can used to harden softer waxes for reduced elasticity and crystallization, and can be used in a wide variety of make-up products (Corbeil et al., 2000). Candelilla wax is taken from the outer surface of the Euphorbia cerifera plant found in northern Mexico. The wax is light brown in colour, and is hard and shiny. It can be found in creams, lipsticks and other make-up products. The wax has a high melting point and can be used in many products that require resistance to heat. Jojoba oil is a waxy ester that is liquid at room temperature and comes from Simmondsia chinensis evergreen shrubs found in the southwestern United States and in Mexico (O’Lenick et al., 2008). Japan wax, or sumac wax, is not a true wax. Instead, it is a fat extracted from the fruit of the Rhus succedanes plant and can be used as a plant-based alternative to beeswax (Corbeil et al., 2000).
Microencapsulation of retinyl palmitate by melt dispersion for cosmetic application
Published in Journal of Microencapsulation, 2020
Aditi Nandy, Eliza Lee, Abhyuday Mandal, Raha Saremi, Suraj Sharma
Beeswax is an insect wax secreted from honeybees, consisting mainly of fatty acid esters (65%), hydrocarbons (23%), free acids (12%) and free alcohols (1%) (Tulloch 1970). In the DSC curve (Figure 3.1), beeswax showed its melting peak (Tm) around 65.84 °C and crystallization peak (Tc) at around 57.5 °C. Paraffin wax, being derived from petroleum source and composed of mostly hydrocarbons (Himran et al.1994), showed Tm at around 64.73 °C and Tc at around 54.83 °C, which were lower than the Tm and Tc of beeswax, respectively. Carnauba wax is a hard wax derived from Brazilian palm leaves, usually with a high content of aliphatic esters (38–40%), diesters of fatty acids (30–34%), a small number of fatty alcohols (10–12%), acids, hydrocarbons, etc. (Vandenburg and Wilder 1970). The Tm of carnauba wax was found at 87 °C whereas the Tc was at 77 °C. Therefore, carnauba wax exhibited the highest melting and crystallization temperatures. These results were consistent with the results obtained by Ruguo et al. (2011) for the thermal properties of the three waxes.
Characterisation of peppermint (Mentha piperita L.) essential oil encapsulates
Published in Journal of Microencapsulation, 2019
Murat Yilmaztekin, Steva Lević, Ana Kalušević, Mustafa Cam, Branko Bugarski, Vesna Rakić, Vladimir Pavlović, Viktor Nedović
Peppermint essential oil (Arifoglu brand) was supplied from a local market (Kayseri, Turkey). The chemical composition of essential oil determined by GC-MS is given in Table 1. The alginate (ALGOGELTM3001, Cargill, Minnetonka, MN, USA) was generously donated by PALCO (Šabac, Serbia). Bovine gelatine (food grade) was supplied from the domestic market in Belgrade (Serbia). Carnauba wax was supplied from Carl Roth GmbH (Karlsruhe, Germany). Sodium citrate and dichloromethane (GC grade) were obtained from Merck (Darmstadt, Germany). All other chemicals were of analytical reagent grade and used without any further purification.