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Weaving
Published in Michael Hann, Textile Design, 2020
Rapier looms are of various types, with earlier models using a single rod (known as a rapier) to carry a trail of the weft yarn from one side of the loom to the other. An advancement was the use of two rapiers, one at each side of the loom, with one rapier taking the yarn halfway into the shed, and transferring it to the other rapier, which carried the yarn to the other side of the shed. The introduction of flexible rapiers minimised the amount of space taken up by each loom. Rapier looms are much faster than shuttle looms but slower than projectile looms.
Development and characterization of impact resistant fabric with better comfort for motorbike riders
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2023
Hassan Jamal, Faheem Ahmad, Farooq Azam, Muhammad Umair, Sheraz Ahmad, Yasir Nawab, Abher Rasheed, Tehseen Ullah
First, the fibers were collected and were properly mixed and cleaned in the blow room. The yarns were manufactured at ring frame according to the blend ratios given in design of experiment. The yarn was converted into a rope, and the rope was than dipped in the dyebath containing vat dyes and auxiliaries i-e Sodium Hydrosulphite and salt. The next step was the development of impact resistance 3/1 twill fabric. Linear density of the warp yarn was 25/2 Tex with (Cotton 47%, Kevlar 19%, Polyester 17%, Nylon 9%, Elastane 8%) composition and for weft yarn linear density was 25/2 with (Kevlar 46%, Polyester 37%, Nylon 9%, Elastane 8%) specifications. The size material was applied on the warp dyed yarns and converted the yarn into beam as per requirement. The undyed yarn was used in weft direction on rapier loom for the development of 3/1 twill fabric. The developed fabric had 69.5 end per inch and 43.2 picks per inch with 107.82 GSM. The weave design of fabric is shown in Figure 1.
The through-thickness thermal conductivity and heat transport mechanism of carbon fiber three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabric composite
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2023
Yuwei Li, Lei Li, Yuanyuan Li, Hailou Wang, Ping Wang, Yan Zhang
The 3DOWF is a unique kind of multilayer fabric. The first set of tows that run in the weaving direction is called warp yarns, while the second set of tows that run transverse to the weaving direction is called weft yarns. The bundling yarns run through the thickness direction and is 90° from the plane of the warp and weft yarn, which are called Z-yarn. According to the different warp tension demand of 3DOWF, Z-yarn guide plate was designed based on traditional rapier loom with single shed. The ground warp was let off in layers, and the weft was beaten after all the weft openings were introduced. One end of the Z-yarn was passed through the guide plate, which was suspended by the tension hammer, and the other end was involved in drafting and denting. The schematic diagram of the device is shown in Figure 1. This device can realize respective control the tension of warp and Z-yarn, which makes the Z-yarn have a good perpendicularity and no splitting or breaking in the weaving process, thus improving the quality of 3DOWF.
Investigation of thermal comfort properties of fabrics containing mohair
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2022
Adine Gericke, Jiri Militky, Mohanapriya Venkataraman, Hester J. Steyn, Jana Vermaas
An even sided twill (2/2) weave was chosen to get an even distribution of fibers within a given area of fabric. Two variations in pick count were used which led to two subsets SS1w1 and SS1w2. Samples were woven on an industrial rapier loom, using computerized control of the weave structure, warp tension and number of picks per cm. Due to the aim of this part of the study being a comparison of the properties of the fibers, a high fabric count was selected for SS1w1 to ensure yarns and fibers were tightly packed. The lower fabric count in SS1w2 allows for the incorporation of more air in between yarns (an important factor in the thermal properties and moisture management properties of any fabric). Both subsets SS1w1 and SS1w2. are described in Table 1. Small adjustments had to be made to the picks/cm to ensure that the areal density (g/m2) of all the samples in one set was comparable in spite of small differences in weft yarn count. The fabrics were not sent through any finishing processes after weaving to prevent any distortion of the yarn count as a result of exposure to moisture or heat.