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Research progress of preservatives in cosmetics and their detection techniques
Published in Binoy K. Saikia, Advances in Applied Chemistry and Industrial Catalysis, 2022
Although preservatives in cosmetics can slow down the growth of micro-organisms in cosmetics, improper concentrations may cause contact allergies to the skin. In 1998, Nielsen in Denmark reported the research on contact allergies and found that about 6% of contact allergies were caused by the excessive amount of preservatives in the cosmetics used by patients (Goossens 1999; Marks 2000, 2003) According to the patch test on examining skin allergic reactions in the United States from 1996 to 2002, the rate of skin allergic reactions caused by paraben preservatives from 1996 to 1998 was 1.7%. From 2001 to 2002, this figure has decreased to 0.6% due to the widespread use of paraben preservatives in cosmetics. The rate of skin allergy screening caused by formaldehyde or quaternium-15 was about 9%, the rate of contact allergy caused by imidazolidinyl urea was 2.7% to 3.7%, and the rate of contact allergy caused by isothiazolinone was 2.3% (Lu 2014; Pratt 2004; Wilkinson 2002). According to a comprehensive research of patch test in Europe from 1991 to 2000, the rate of skin allergy caused by hydroxybenzoates was 0.5% to 1.0%, the rate of skin allergy caused by formaldehyde or quaternium-15 was about 2% to 2.5%, the rate of skin allergy caused by imidazolidinyl urea was 0.5% to 1.5%, and the rate of skin allergy caused by isothiazolinone was 2.3% (Wu 2007). There are many types of preservatives, and many countries have regulations on the use and detection of preservatives in cosmetics.
Proteins for Conditioning Hair and Skin
Published in Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski, Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, 2020
Proteins are components of every living thing, attesting to the broad-based compatibility of their monomers, the amino acids. It should thus not be surprising that proteins and their hydrolyzates and derivatives are readily biodegradable. A suitable preservation system must thus be incorporated in products containing both water and protein-based material. The protein products sold as aqueous solutions utilize a variety of preservation systems. Most frequently employed are the parabens (methyl- and propylparaben, in particular). Finished products containing proteins in their native states (generally present to make use of their enzymatic activities) require preservatives which have very low reactivity toward the protein and so do not appreciably modify the conformation of the protein. A combination of parabens and phenoxyethanol at a level of up to 1% by weight of the formulation may be employed. When hydrolyzates and their derivatives are utilized, more reactive (and more cost-effective) preservatives can be utilized. Such agents may include quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, and methyl[chloro]isothiazolinone, with or without parabens. Specific preservation systems are referenced by some manufacturers (16,17). Certain preservatives are incompatible with proteinaceous matter, particularly at high concentration. A striking example is the firm gel produced after overnight storage at room temperature of a solution of approximately equal proportions of 37% formaldehyde and 55% hydrolyzed collagen (2000 Da).
Household and Personal Care Products: Cleaning up and Looking Good
Published in Richard J. Sundberg, The Chemical Century, 2017
Many cosmetics and similar personal care products contain preservatives to control bacterial growth. Some of these have become controversial. One group is called parabens and are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. The parabens have been considered to possibly be exogenous estrogens and endocrine disruptors, based mainly on in vitro studies28 (see Section 9.7). Another type that has elicited concern are formaldehyde generators such as 1,3-bis-(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethyl hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), quaternium-15, and imidazolidinyl urea. The structures are given in Scheme 6.4. Also used is a mixture of methylisothiazoline and methylchloroisothiazolidine. These compounds have some potential for allergenic sensitization. The incidence of sensitivity to the parabens is <0.5% and for the formaldehyde-release agents it ranges around 1–2%. Both the United States and EU require that the preservatives be listed and there are maximum concentrations that are permitted. New preservatives must be approved by appropriate safety committees. In the United States, this is done through the Cosmetic Ingredient Review process, which includes representatives of the industry, government, and consumers.
Formation and inhibition of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in cosmetics under pH, temperature, and fluorescent, ultraviolet, and visual light
Published in Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part A, 2018
Duck Soo Lim, Seung Kwang Lim, Min Kook Kim, Yong Chan Kwon, Tae Hyun Roh, Seul Min Choi, Sungpil Yoon, Hyung Sik Kim, Byung-Mu Lee
Strategies for reducing levels of nitrosamine and NDELA in cosmetics include the minimization or elimination of unintended nitrite sources in the formulation (FDA 2012). When heated to temperatures above 35°C, or at an acidic pH, and when secondary amine contaminants are present, surfactants, viscosity enhancing agents, pH adjusting agents, emulsifier, and antimicrobial preservatives may catalyze potential nitrosating chemical reactions (Flower et al. 2006; Table 1). The Cosmetics Directive has imposed specific restrictions on use of sodium nitrite (SN) with secondary and/or tertiary amines or other substances that generate nitrosamines (Havery and Chou 1994; Stephany and Schuller 1980). This Directive also recommended reduction or elimination of amine-source and nitrosamine-releasing ingredients listed in Table 1. The Cosmetics Directive and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel also recommended banning all (secondary) dialkyl- and dialkanolamines and their salts, DEA, diisopropanolamine bis (hydroxyalkyl) amines, cocamide MEA, and cocamide DEA (Andersen 1999; Chou, Yates, and Wenninger 1987). In addition, the use of monoalkanolamines, monoalkylamines, trialkanolamines, trialkylamines, their salts, fatty acid dialkylamides, and dialkanolamides was limited (EC, 2009; EEC, 1992). Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) are surfactants employed in scrubs, shampoo, body wash, dish soap, and bubble bath. These ingredients may produce contact dermatitis, eye irritation, and other allergic reactions (CIR 1996; Green et al. 1989; Jacob and Amini 2008; Robinson et al. 2010). Imidazolidinyl urea (imidurea) is an antimicrobial preservative that releases formaldehyde and nitrosamines in cosmetic products at temperatures exceeding 10°C (ATSDR 1999; Lehmann et al. 2006). Therefore, in the selection of suitable raw materials during the formulation of cosmetics, the addition of an inhibitor of nitrosamine production needs to be considered (Dunnett and Telling 1984; EPA 2012; WHO 2002).