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The Measurement of Textile Material Properties
Published in Tom Cassidy, Parikshit Goswami, Textile and Clothing Design Technology, 2017
Obviously, there has been a need for quantitative measurement of fabric hand. In Japan, the Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee (HESC, established in 1972) developed, under the direction of Professor Kawabata, a procedure that is based on the physical measurements of fabric qualities. The KES-FB system for the evaluation of fabric hand (Kawabata Evaluation System of Fabrics) includes several methods that use a tensile tester, a bending tester, a shear tester, a compression tester, and a surface (roughness and friction) tester. The KES-FB system preforms 6 measurements with these 4 instruments, and all together 17 different physical quantities can be obtained or calculated. As a result, a fingerprint diagram can be printed for each tested fabric in regard to these quantities. Fingerprints of different fabrics can be compared, and estimations about sewability and formability, for example, can be made.
Fiber Surfaces in Textile Industry: Application for the Characterization of Wear or Comfort Properties of Modern Fabrics
Published in Michel Nardin, Eugène Papirer, Powders and Fibers, 2006
The KES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics) [8] is well known for the characterization of tensile, shear, compression, friction, and roughness properties of fibrous structures which typically show high transformation under low stress. In the case of a tribological approach, this method allows the measurement of a coefficient of friction, the mean deviation of that coefficient, and the mean deviation of the profile. Nevertheless, if these parameters are sufficient enough to characterize material differences, they are not sensitive enough to identify fine differences of fibrous surfaces as well as their finishing treatments [9].
Human Thermoregulation System and Comfort
Published in Guowen Song, Faming Wang, Firefighters’ Clothing and Equipment, 2018
Well-known fabric sensorial comfort measurement methods include Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) developed by the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) (Minazio, 1995) and the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) devised by Kawabata research group (Kawabata, 1980, 1982, 1984). Recently, Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) was introduced as an alternate method to the conventional measures (Liao, Li, Hu, Wu, & Li, 2014).
Development of hemp-blended cotton fabrics and analysis on handle behavior, low-stress mechanical and aesthetic properties
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2025
Meenakshi Ahirwar, B. K. Behera
Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was used for measuring the sixteen low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics. Bending, compression, surface properties and tensile and shear properties were evaluated using KES-FB2, KES-FB3, KES-FB4 and KES-FB1 instruments, respectively (Majumdar & Pol, 2014). The fabric sample size was 20*20 cm. For each sample ten readings were measured both in wrap and weft directions. The Kawabata set of equations KN-202-DS and KN-101-SUMMER were used to evaluate the primary and the total hand values of shirting and suiting fabrics, respectively. The testing of shirting fabrics were carried out in high sensitivity conditions whereas that of suiting fabrics was carried out in standard conditions as per Kawabata equations standards. The primary hand value and the total hand value obtained were in a scale of 0–10 and 0–5, respectively. The primary hand values considered for suiting and shirting fabrics were stiffness, crispness, anti-drape stiffness and fullness. The meaning and units of various low-stress mechanical properties are given in Table 4.
Fabric surface characterization: assessment of deep learning-based texture representations using a challenging dataset
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2021
Yuting Hu, Zhiling Long, Anirudha Sundaresan, Motaz Alfarraj, Ghassan AlRegib, Sungmee Park, Sundaresan Jayaraman
Tactile sensing or fabric hand plays a critical role in an individual’s decision to buy a certain fabric from the range of available fabrics for a desired application. Therefore, textile and clothing manufacturers have long been in search of an objective method for assessing fabric hand, which can then be used to ‘engineer’ fabrics (Rajamanickam et al., 1998) with a desired hand using the independent parameters shown in Figure 1. One of the successful systems in practice has been the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) developed by Kawabata and Niwa to assess the total hand value of fabrics (Kawabata, 1980; Kawabata & Niwa, 2017). The Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system was developed in the 1980s as a simpler alternative to the Kawabata system and minimized the testing and assessment time (Ly, 1990). Ciesielska-Wrobel and Langenhove present a review of research developments in the area of fabric hand and discuss the challenges associated with the ‘subjective’ ranking of fabric hand by humans, especially when the differences are very little (Ciesielska-Wrobel & Langenhove, 2012).
Canonical analysis of the Kawabata and sliding fabric friction measurement methods
Published in The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2020
F. X. Capdevila, Enric Carrera-Gallissà, Mercedes Escusa, Micaela Rotela
Fabric friction is usually measured with one of the following three methods:The Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F), which measures compression, bending, shearing and surface friction forces to assess surface micro-roughness and determine the friction coefficient (Kawabata, 1980).The sliding method, which measures the friction force against a parallelepipedal weight of known mass sliding over a fabric specimen with a modified Instron dynamometer (Ajayi, 1992b; Carrera-Gallissà et al., 2017). This method has several variants (Das, Kothari, & Vandana, 2005; Ramalho et al., 2013).The FRICTORQ method, which estimates the coefficient of friction between two parallel fabric surfaces by measuring torque. The method pulls a fabric specimen through a ring. The upper element has a ring-shaped contact surface that is placed on a horizontally lying flat specimen whereas the lower element rotates at a constant angular velocity around a vertical axis. The coefficient of friction is proportional to the torque measurement provided by a high-precision sensor (Lima, Hes, Vasconcelos, & Martins, 2005a; Lima et al., 2005b; Lima & Hes, 2002).