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Introduction
Published in Dominic Reeve, Andrew Chadwick, Christopher Fleming, Coastal Engineering, 2018
Dominic Reeve, Andrew Chadwick, Christopher Fleming
If the seabed and beach are of mobile material (sand or gravel), then it may be transported by the combination of forces outlined above. The ‘sorting’ of beach material (with larger particles deposited in one position and finer particles in another) can also be explained. For convenience coastal sediment transport is divided into two components, perpendicular to the coastline (cross-shore transport) and parallel to the coastline (longshore transport or ‘littoral drift’). Whether beaches are stable or not depends on the rates of sediment transport over meso and macro time scales. The transport rates are a function of the wave, breakers and currents. Waves usually approach a shoreline at an oblique angle. The wave height and angle will vary with time (depending on the weather). Sediment may be transported by unbroken waves and/or currents; however, most transport takes place in the surf and swash zones. Further details of cross- and longshore transport are discussed in Chapters 5 and 6.
On the state-of-the-art of particle methods for coastal and ocean engineering
Published in Coastal Engineering Journal, 2018
Particle methods have been directly and exclusively applied to solve several important coastal/ocean engineering problems. Indeed, the fully Lagrangian meshfree features of particle methods would make them excellent candidates to solve problems that are not easy to be precisely/flexibly targeted by conventional grid-based methods. Examples include, simulation of floating bodies (especially those under extreme sea states), aerated wave breaking, violent wave impacts, surf/swash zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In the following subsections, several exclusive applications of particle methods for coastal/ocean engineering problems are reviewed. These exclusive applications are divided into three categories of floating bodies, coastal hydrodynamics and coastal sediment transport.