Kermes

Kermes

Warps and textures in symbology

Published in Gianni Montagna, Cristina Carvalho, Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future, 2018

Very often these dyes were fabricated from insects, – the Kermes, – which were gathered during the Summer time and then killed and put into vinegar. Maybe it was the richest and permanent of natural dyes. The Coccinelle is an insect from some Coccus cacti, from Mexico that was introduced into the Orient relatively in more recent times that was used for dyeing in the the same color. The third type of red was obtained from a root of “madder wood”, (Rubia tinctorum), put into boiling water and afterwards drained. To obtain a violet color it had to be mixed with milk and yeasted grape juice.

March of the Pigments: Color History, Science and Impact

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Journal Information

Published in Ambix, 2023

Jo Kirby

To take another example, the effect of the variable proportion of yellow flavokermesic acid in kermes and Porphyrophora polonica on the colour obtained is a valid point, but there is no evidence that this was ever viewed as a disadvantage. The dyeing quality of the insects was assessed before purchase, so poor quality insects would not be bought. Kermes was rich enough in dye content to be one of the most valuable wool dyes in medieval and Renaissance Europe, although both kermes and Porphyrophora dyes could not compete with the superior dyeing power of cochineal in the long run.

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Warps and textures in symbology

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