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Role of Pullulans in Cosmetics
Published in Shakeel Ahmed, Aisverya Soundararajan, Pullulan, 2020
Sudipta Roy, Sanjoy Kumar Das, Soumalya Chakraborty, Kamalendu Pandey, Ahana Mukherjee, Rajan Rajabalaya
Pullulan is an anaerobically produced, water-soluble glucan gum from a yeast-like fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a linear homopolysaccharide of glucose, which is 1,6-linked maltotriose. Pullulan has a wide range of applications commercially as well as in industries such as health care, food science, and pharmacy. Properties such as excellent transparent film-forming ability, moisture absorptivity, water solubility, and nontoxicity have made pullulan advantageous as an ingredient in the manufacturing of cosmetics. Due to its high water solubility, it serves as an ideal ingredient for eye, bathing, and hair products. Previous works reveal that high-purity algae extract from microalgae (Nannochloropsis oculata) combined with pullulan has shown to tighten skin. Moreover, the presence of vitamin C and B12 as antioxidants has shown the ability to retain moisture and thus prevent water loss. Adherence properties of pullulans have instant skin-tightening effect and can thus be used to formulate antiaging creams. Argireline combined with pullulan stimulates collagen synthesis and renewal of tissue to a greater extent than Argireline alone and thus provides treatment to wrinkles. Effective binding properties of pullulans in the presence of surfactants has made it suitable for formulating creams, lotions, lipstick, lip gloss, etc. Pullulan content in a cosmetic may vary depending on its kind. Thus, pullulan may be freely used in combination with other polymers, low-molecular-weight compounds, inorganic compounds, perfumes, preservatives, etc., which are used at the time of preparation of the cosmetics, and may be used in cosmetics of any composition.
Non-cancer, cancer, and dermal sensitization risk assessment of heavy metals in cosmetics
Published in Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part A, 2018
Duck Soo Lim, Tae Hyun Roh, Min Kook Kim, Yong Chan Kwon, Seul Min Choi, Seung Jun Kwack, Kyu Bong Kim, Sungpil Yoon, Hyung Sik Kim, Byung-Mu Lee
Co and its salts are used as pigments in light-brown hair dyes and in makeup (Fischer 2003). Co is widely assumed to be a skin allergen (EU 2009a). The mean content of Co in this study (N.D.–41.08 μg/g) was numerically higher than data obtained by Corazza et al. (2009) for facial makeup cosmetics (eye shadow, lip balm, lip-gloss, lip pencil, lipstick, and nail polish), with Co levels ranging from <0.2 to 12.5 μg/g. In general, significant levels of Co were found in eye shadows, face paints, hair creams, and henna dyes. The highest levels of Co, between 122.78 and 253.33 μg/g, were present in the eye shadows of Chinese products. Sneyers et al. (2009) reported Co concentrations that ranged from 1.05 to 2.42 μg/g for eye shadow, 0.055–0.105 μg/g for lipstick, and 3.21–5.64 μg/g for powdered makeup. The Co concentration in eye shadow in this investigation (0.003–9.77 μg/g) was quite similar to other studies. The levels of Co noted by Contado and Pagnoni (2012) and Volpe et al. (2012) in eye shadow ranged from 0.71 to 17.3 μg/g and 0.00015 to 0.0307 μg/g, respectively. Conversely, products for lips, body creams, soaps, and nail polish contained low or even undetectable levels of Co (maximum of 2.23 μg/g) (Bocca et al. 2007; Corazza et al. 2009; Liu, Hammond, and Rojas-Cheatham 2013; Onwordi et al. 2011; Sneyers et al. 2009). The presence of Co and Co salts in cosmetic products is limited by the EU regulation for ingredients, but their presence is allowed as an impurity if it is technically necessary (EU 2009b). Nonetheless, the permissible level of Co impurity has not been regulated in most countries.