China 
Africa 
Explore chapters and articles related to this topic
Emollient Esters and Oils
Published in Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski, Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, 2020
John Carson, Kevin F. Gallagher
The straight-chain, saturated fatty acids typically used in simple emollient esters range from lauric (C12.0) acid to stearic (C18:0) acid. Shorter hydrocarbon chains are not capable of delivering the nongreasy, lubricating emollient feel associated with cosmetic esters. Higher hydrocarbon chains are likely to produce esters with melting points well above skin temperature. It is difficult to consider these esters as emollients; they are probably better categorized as wax esters. Of course, the simple esters can also be based on unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic (C18:1) and linoleic (C18.2) acids, as well as the less common palmitoleic (C16:1) acid.
Retinoids in Acne
Published in Ayse Serap Karadag, Berna Aksoy, Lawrence Charles Parish, Retinoids in Dermatology, 2019
Ruta Ganceviciene, Christos C. Zouboulis
The 4-oxo metabolites of retinoids have been shown to be functionally active in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts by their ability to induce changes in gene expression (41). 13-cis RA also induces the rapid and transient expression of transforming growth factor (TGF)-β1, TGF-β2, and/or TGF-β3, so that the TGFs will inhibit keratinocyte proliferation. TGF-β2 and TGF-β3 may act in the SG as mediators of the effect of 13-cis RA (42). A marked decrease in wax esters, a slight decrease in squalene and triglyceride fraction, and a relative increase in cholesterol level have been detected in skin surface lipids after treatment with isotretinoin (16). Free sterols and total ceramides have been found to be increased in comedonal lipids (43).
Natural Products and Stem Cells and Their Commercial Aspects in Cosmetics
Published in Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters, Cosmetic Formulation, 2019
Sonia Trehan, Rose Soskind, Jemima Moraes, Vinam Puri, Bozena Michniak-Kohn
Waxes are esters comprised of long-chain fatty acids that have been reacted with higher alcohols. Wax esters have two fatty groups: one in the alcohol portion and one in the acid portion (O’Lenick et al., 2008). Carnauba wax is a high melting point wax derived from the leaves of carnauba palm trees (Copernicia cerifera). Although the tree grows throughout the world, only the variety found in northeastern Brazil produces the wax used in the cosmetic industry. Carnauba wax can used to harden softer waxes for reduced elasticity and crystallization, and can be used in a wide variety of make-up products (Corbeil et al., 2000). Candelilla wax is taken from the outer surface of the Euphorbia cerifera plant found in northern Mexico. The wax is light brown in colour, and is hard and shiny. It can be found in creams, lipsticks and other make-up products. The wax has a high melting point and can be used in many products that require resistance to heat. Jojoba oil is a waxy ester that is liquid at room temperature and comes from Simmondsia chinensis evergreen shrubs found in the southwestern United States and in Mexico (O’Lenick et al., 2008). Japan wax, or sumac wax, is not a true wax. Instead, it is a fat extracted from the fruit of the Rhus succedanes plant and can be used as a plant-based alternative to beeswax (Corbeil et al., 2000).
Calanus oil attenuates isoproterenol-induced cardiac hypertrophy by regulating myocardial remodeling and oxidative stress
Published in Ultrastructural Pathology, 2023
Shrook Y. Abdellatif, Nagui H. Fares, Samar H. Elsharkawy, Yomna I. Mahmoud
Calanus oil (CO) is a relatively “new” marine oil produced from the crustacean Calanus finmarchicus in the northern Atlantic sea. The uniqueness of CO is its wax esters, which are distinctly different from any other oil in terms of chemistry, bioactivity and health benefits.5,6 CO is also one of the richest natural sources of poly-unsaturated fatty acids,7,8 and omega-3 fatty acid stearidonic acid.5 Therefore, CO shows significant anti-hypertensive,7 anti-inflammatory,5,9 anti-atherosclerotic,9 anti-fibrotic effects,7,10 and anti-obesity effects7,11,12; with no indication of adverse effects.13,14 Thus, CO could be an effective and safe food supplement to prevent many cardiovascular diseases. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to investigate the role of calanus oil against cardiac hypertrophy, which has never been investigated before.
Liposomes as vehicles for topical ophthalmic drug delivery and ocular surface protection
Published in Expert Opinion on Drug Delivery, 2021
José Javier López-Cano, Miriam Ana González-Cela-Casamayor, Vanessa Andrés-Guerrero, Rocío Herrero-Vanrell, Irene Teresa Molina-Martínez
The lipid layer is the outermost layer of the preocular tear film and has been widely associated to the reduction of the surface tension favoring the spread of the tear film over the entire surface and the protection against tear evaporation [22,27]. Its production occurs in the Meibomian glands [24,28] and include a complex variety of lipids. The tear lipidome contains amphiphilic and nonpolar lipids which have different function. The group of amphiphilic lipids is composed of phospholipids including phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine and others such as sphingolipids [28–30]. Amphiphilic lipids appear to form a sublayer capable of interacting with polar and nonpolar tear compounds. The polar heads are oriented toward the aqueous layer and the apolar ones interact with the nonpolar lipids. In this way, the amphiphilic sublayer allows the formation of a stable nonpolar lipid sublayer on the surface and its spreading [30,31]. Nonpolar lipid sublayer comprehends mainly wax esters, cholesteryl esters, and triglycerides. This sublayer is directly in contact with the air and when it is in proper amounts prevents the evaporation of aqueous layer. If the lipid layer is destabilized, aqueous evaporation increases, causing pathologies such as dry eye disease (DED) [31,32].
Sjögren-Larsson syndrome: a complex metabolic disease with a distinctive ocular phenotype
Published in Ophthalmic Genetics, 2019
Samiksha Fouzdar-Jain, Donny W Suh, William B Rizzo
In addition to aldehydes, fatty alcohols may also be implicated in the retinal phenotype. Long-chain alcohols (C16–C18) that cannot be oxidized to fatty acids in SLS accumulate in various cells and tissues, such as cultured fibroblasts, keratinocytes and plasma (95,96), and it is likely that they also accumulate in the SLS retina. Long-chain alcohols have a high partition coefficient for lipid bilayers where they can perturb the membrane lipid order (97,98). They can exist as free alcohols or be diverted into biosynthetic pathways resulting in accumulation of certain cell-specific lipids such as, for example, wax esters and alkyl-diacylglycerol as seen in cultured keratinocytes (96). In the skin of patients with SLS, ultrastructural evidence of lipid accumulation in the stratum corneum membranes is associated with a leaky epidermal water barrier and development of ichthyosis (11). If fatty alcohols or their lipid products also accumulate in the retina, they may disrupt membrane turnover or cellular functions, or contribute to the crystalline inclusions (Figure 5).