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Innovations and Future Prospects of Dermal Delivery Systems
Published in Tapash K. Ghosh, Dermal Drug Delivery, 2020
Rashmi Upasani, Anushree Herwadkar, Neha Singh, Ajay K. Banga
Cosmeceutical peptides are sub classified into four categories: carrier, signal, neurotransmitter and enzyme modulating. The first commercial peptides were carrier peptides designed to bind to another ingredient, e.g., copper, and facilitate its penetration into wounded skin for healing purposes. This carrier concept was adapted to antiaging products, for example a peptide known as GHK-Cu was developed into a line of products to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Then the signal peptides were developed which were designed to mimic a natural body structure and regulate the production of endogenous protein. The most popular and widely distributed signal peptide is a palmitoyl pentapeptide (Pal-KTTKS), commercially known as Matrixyl (Sederma, Paris, France). This peptide is a procollagen fragment composed of amino acids Lysine, Threonine and Serine, that downregulates the production of collagenase, thereby increasing dermal collagen and minimizing the appearance of aging. Acetyl-hexapeptide-3, commercially known as Argireline, and pentapeptide-3, commercially known as VIALOX (Centerchem, Norwalk, CT, USA), are examples of neurotransmitter peptides that are suggested to topically relax the muscles and reduce the appearance of facial wrinkles. Enzyme modulating peptides are botanic extracts. An example is a peptide found in soy protein that inhibits the formation of proteases and is used as cosmeceutical facial moisturizers.
The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment
Published in Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2022
Anna Kołodziejczak, Helena Rotsztejn
Age-related weakening of the epidermal barrier function results in the dehydration of the skin, which may be aggravated by environmental factors, further deteriorating the function of the water-fat mantle and increasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as well as activating inflammatory processes of the skin. Therefore, cosmetic skin care should be included in the treatment of esthetic defects around the eyes. In order to reduce esthetic defects and to care for the skin around the eyes, the following substances can be used: tetrahexydecyl ascorbate, alpha-tocopherol, niacinamide, heparin, retinoids (0.15% retinol, retinaldehyde, topical retinoic acid in the concentration of 0.01% to 1%), argireline (acetyl hexapeptide − 3), chrysin (5,7-dihydroxyflavone), N-hydroxysuccinimide, vitamin K (1% vitamin K), peptide preparations (Dipeptide-2 increases lymph circulation), hesperidin (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone), caffeine (5% Caffeine Solution) (1,6–8,12,15,17,18,33).
Anti-ageing peptides and proteins for topical applications: a review
Published in Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2022
Mengyang Liu, Shuo Chen, Zhiwen Zhang, Hongyu Li, Guiju Sun, Naibo Yin, Jingyuan Wen
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2) is reported as an artificial peptide chemically modified from N-terminal, which can inhibit SNARE complex formation (Blanes-Mira et al. 2002). It is commercially available as Argireline® (Dana and Rotsztejn 2017). It inhibits nano-scaled vesicle aggregation and re-structure by stopping the formation of SNARE complex matrix, which can be used for synaptic vesicle exocytosis (Gutiérrez et al. 1995; Gutierrez et al. 1997). One study showed that a twice daily application of 5% acetyl-hexapeptide-3 semi-solid formulation in 10 female adults improved periorbital rhytids (maker for skin ageing) by 27% after 30 days treatment (Dana and Rotsztejn 2017). Leuphasyl® is another peptide that mimics the natural mechanism of enkephalins; it blocks calcium channels in the neuron and inhibits the release of acetylcholine (Wongrattanakamon et al. 2018). Further studies have found that this peptide reduces the depth of wrinkles (Errante et al. 2020). These peptides work with a reduced dose of botulinum toxin injections, and topical application ensures better patient compliance, showing future potential for pharmaceutics and cosmetics use.