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Giant Micelles and Shampoos
Published in Raoul Zana, Eric W. Kaler, Giant Micelles, 2007
The rheological behavior of the two following surfactant combinations often used in shampoos has been investigated using flow and oscillation measurements: sodium laurylether sulfate (SLES)/cocoylamidopropylbetaine (CAPB) (12.5/2.5 wt%), an anionic/amphoteric surfactant combinationammonium laurylether sulfate (ALES)/ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) (10.0/5.0 wt%), a mixture of two anionic surfactants
Evaluating Effects of Conditioning Formulations on Hair
Published in Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski, Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, 2020
An important step in the evaluation of a conditioner is testing performed by a panel of experienced evaluators on hair tresses. This test is conducted to compare various attributes of the formulation as they relate to the process of product application on hair and to judge various properties of treated hair. The procedure involves the use of a standardized type of hair in the form of hair swatches. Selection of a proper hair type is critical in the evaluation of hair conditioners because these products have significantly different performance characteristics depending on the type of hair to which they are applied. For example, a product formulated to treat damaged hair will probably be inappropriate for normal or fine hair because of excessive deposition of actives on the hair. A minimum of three swatches is usually used for each product to be evaluated. Hair is shampooed before treatment with a standard surfactant solution (i.e., 3% ammonium lauryl sulfate) and a specified amount of product is applied to hair, usually 1-2 g of formulation per 2 g of hair tress. The formulation is worked into wet hair manually, left on the hair for 1-5 min, and then rinsed off for 30 sec by running water under controlled flow rate and temperature conditions. The key is to develop questionnaires which provide an adequate product description and to properly select panelists to include individuals with varying opinions and perceptions. The rheology, appearance, feel, and texture of the product can be analyzed in terms of the following parameters: (1) viscosity or ease of dispensing the product from a bottle, (2) feel and texture on the palm before application to hair (oily, hard versus soft, waxy, watery, smooth, rich, tacky), (3) color, (4) spreadability or ease of working the formulation into the hair, and (5) ease of rinse from hair and skin after treatment. Hair characteristics are evaluated for (1) ease of wet and dry combing, (2) wet and dry feel, (3) manageability, (4) body, (5) static, (6) luster, and (7) residue on hair. Further analysis of hair condition can be performed after a single or multiple shampooings with a reapplication of the product. The properties of a conditioner which could be judged in this test include (1) removability of a treatment from hair by shampooing and (2) buildup as a result of multiple applications.
Risk assessment of N-nitrosodiethylamine (NDEA) and N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in cosmetics
Published in Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part A, 2018
Duck Soo Lim, Tae Hyun Roh, Min Kook Kim, Yong Chan Kwon, Seul Min Choi, Seung Jun Kwack, Kyu Bong Kim, Sungpil Yoon, Hyung Sik Kim, Byung-Mu Lee
The cosmetic samples included the following nitrosamine-forming agents: TEA, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate (TLS), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), cocamide DEA, cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), lauramide DEA, cocamide MEA, and cocamide methyl MEA. In more than half of the samples (54.3%), nitrosating agents were not detected (N.D.). TEA and CAPB were identified at 19.6% and 10.3%, respectively. The highest median and maximum values were found in shampoo (median value = 3) and shower gel (maximum value = 5), respectively. Results for analyses of cosmetics samples are presented in Table 2 and Figure 3.
Formation and inhibition of N-nitrosodiethanolamine in cosmetics under pH, temperature, and fluorescent, ultraviolet, and visual light
Published in Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part A, 2018
Duck Soo Lim, Seung Kwang Lim, Min Kook Kim, Yong Chan Kwon, Tae Hyun Roh, Seul Min Choi, Sungpil Yoon, Hyung Sik Kim, Byung-Mu Lee
Strategies for reducing levels of nitrosamine and NDELA in cosmetics include the minimization or elimination of unintended nitrite sources in the formulation (FDA 2012). When heated to temperatures above 35°C, or at an acidic pH, and when secondary amine contaminants are present, surfactants, viscosity enhancing agents, pH adjusting agents, emulsifier, and antimicrobial preservatives may catalyze potential nitrosating chemical reactions (Flower et al. 2006; Table 1). The Cosmetics Directive has imposed specific restrictions on use of sodium nitrite (SN) with secondary and/or tertiary amines or other substances that generate nitrosamines (Havery and Chou 1994; Stephany and Schuller 1980). This Directive also recommended reduction or elimination of amine-source and nitrosamine-releasing ingredients listed in Table 1. The Cosmetics Directive and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel also recommended banning all (secondary) dialkyl- and dialkanolamines and their salts, DEA, diisopropanolamine bis (hydroxyalkyl) amines, cocamide MEA, and cocamide DEA (Andersen 1999; Chou, Yates, and Wenninger 1987). In addition, the use of monoalkanolamines, monoalkylamines, trialkanolamines, trialkylamines, their salts, fatty acid dialkylamides, and dialkanolamides was limited (EC, 2009; EEC, 1992). Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) are surfactants employed in scrubs, shampoo, body wash, dish soap, and bubble bath. These ingredients may produce contact dermatitis, eye irritation, and other allergic reactions (CIR 1996; Green et al. 1989; Jacob and Amini 2008; Robinson et al. 2010). Imidazolidinyl urea (imidurea) is an antimicrobial preservative that releases formaldehyde and nitrosamines in cosmetic products at temperatures exceeding 10°C (ATSDR 1999; Lehmann et al. 2006). Therefore, in the selection of suitable raw materials during the formulation of cosmetics, the addition of an inhibitor of nitrosamine production needs to be considered (Dunnett and Telling 1984; EPA 2012; WHO 2002).