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From Formulation Design to Production: The Scale-Up Process
Published in Heather A.E. Benson, Michael S. Roberts, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Kenneth A. Walters, Cosmetic Formulation, 2019
Anomalies, or outright fake formulas, occur when the customer has not paid for the formula or the relations between customer and manufacturer have broken down, and the formula is not an actual true formula and method that makes the physical product. In my experience this happens more often than you can imagine. Matching an existing product to a questionable formulation can put the new manufacturer and the customer back to square one. There can be a lot of additional angst if the formulator needs to match to sample, which doesn’t correspond to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) on the ingredient label or the PIP or similar registration documents. In situations like this one needs to very clearly discuss whether the INCI and ingredient list and registrations change, and all the associated costs taken into account and even maybe claims, or does the end user next buy a product that is fundamentally different to what they have bought for years?
Evaluation of Specific Classes of Chemical
Published in David Woolley, Adam Woolley, Practical Toxicology, 2017
However, assessment of a cosmetic formulation is not as simple as reading tables in lists of ingredients and checking inclusion levels. The components have to be assessed for their potential to interact when applied, for instance, for the occurrence of nitrosation. Greater harmonization across the various jurisdictions is taking place gradually; the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system of cosmetic names is gaining ground, leading to greater conformity of labeling worldwide. Differences remain, however; in the United States, water is called water but is aqua in the European Union; plant names are usually given in English in the United States but in Latin in the European Union. In the United States, sunscreens are treated as pharmaceuticals but as cosmetics in the European Union.
Silicones in Cosmetics
Published in E. Desmond Goddard, James V. Gruber, Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care, 1999
E. Desmond Goddard, James V. Gruber
This nomenclature system, while extensively employed by silicone chemists, is rarely encountered in the personal care industry. The more commonly utilized ingredient nomenclature system is that determined by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) or International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). This is the system that will be employed throughout this chapter. While this method of nomenclature designation is rather descriptive and detailed for most cosmetic ingredients, silicone compound identification may be somewhat complicated under this system. According to the INCI nomenclature guidelines, the same product name may be representative of numerous and sometimes quite different materials all of which conform to a similar general structure, as will be pointed out below. For this reason, extreme caution must be exercised when evaluating offset products having the same ingredient name. For example, the designation “dimethicone copolyol” may be representative of a liquid oil-in-water emulsifier with a low silicone content and low cloud point, a water-in-oil solubilizer containing a low degree of polyether modification, or a high-melting-point wax. “Dimethicone” is another example, referring to such varying materials as 1 -cst fluids, polymers of several thousand cst, and gums characterized by very low penetration numbers, which appear to be solid under ambient conditions. Since the same INCI designation may be applied to materials of such varying properties, the formulator should carefully evaluate all parameters of a particular silicone compound prior to substituting an “identical replacement” into the personal care composition being manufactured.
Formulation development and accelerated stability testing of a novel sunscreen cream for ultraviolet radiation protection in high altitude areas
Published in Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 2019
Nilutpal Sharma Bora, Bhaskar Mazumder, Pompy Patowary, Sumit Kishor, Yangchen Doma Bhutia, Pronobesh Chattopadhyay, Sanjai Kumar Dwivedi
The formulation to be tested in this study is a novel sunscreen formulation containing a combination of four US FDA sunscreen ingredients; namely titanium dioxide, avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate; along with two synergistic natural ingredients; melatonin and pumpkin seed oil as per the method described by Bora et al., 2016 [15]. The composition of the formulation is listed in Table S1 (Supplementary Information). The combination of the UV filters was selected based on the prediction of SPF value by the DSM Sunscreen OptimizerTM [20] based on the amount and number of UV filters used in a particular formulation. The composition that predicted the highest SPF value, with minimum whitening effect on the skin was selected for the final formulation. The results of the simulated studies are tabulated in (Table S2 in Supplementary Information). The preparation of the formulation was a two step process. Phase A and B were separately heated to a temperature of 35 °C and thereafter blended together slowly with constant homogenization. The primary emulsion thus obtained was incorporated into an International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) grade cosmetic cream base at 40 °C with constant mixing, which when allowed to cool down to room temperature yielded a homogenous, macroscopically stable and esthetic final formulation. The formulation was stored in borosilicate glass containers until further analysis. A total of three batches were prepared and one sample from each batch was randomly selected for further analysis.